I attended my mother’s birthday dinner last night and, naturally, I brought along a bottle of dessert wine I happened to have lying around. The wine: 2004 Sigalas Santorini Vinsanto which, normally, offers lovely presentation of dried figs, orange peel, citrus, high acid, and a long, lasting finish. But unfortunately, this was not the case last night
Paired with a simple fruit salad and small cheesecake you would think the wine would have shown wonderfully. Unfortunately, the finish fell off and the musty aromas and taste were determined to be not to our liking… in a word: corked.
This got me thinking about the issues of cork. Of course, I am likely exposed to more wines than the average drinker, but that is three corked bottles for me in less than one week – one carelessly placed out to taste at a large scale tasting, and the other within the classroom setting.
I decided to do a little research. While there are no concrete numbers (because who could do this study anyway?) it is a general estimate that about 5% of bottles under cork in the US are corked. I suppose if you consider the number of wines I have been exposed to in the past few days, my estimate would be even lower, but still it seems more prominent.
Christmas time gave the whole family a chance to drink corked wine. A simple white Burgundy, of which we had just enjoyed another bottle, was turned rancid in our minds with just one sip – the taint was that bad. Perhaps cork taint is just following me. It seems almost every wine class we have lately has had a wine that is corked. It used to be the instructors would spin it as a good thing so we could recognize flaws… now it’s just plain annoying.
Cork taint is not poisonous to consume, just rather unpleasant. There is belief that cork taint can blow off or even be completely removed under the right circumstances. One method suggests that pouring a wine into a bowl and covering it with Saran Wrap for 24 hours will refresh the wine altogether. Personally, I haven’t found a lot of bottles for which it’s worth the wait.
By its proper name, cork taint is known as TCA or rather 2,4,6-trichloroanisole. There is more than one kind – the other known as 2,4,6-tribromoanisole, but I’ve yet to meet anyone who is able to easily identify which type of cork taint is in the bottle. It is a fungus whose growth can begin virtually anywhere along the production line, which is why quality control in wineries is so important.
If you’ve ever seen someone sniff a cork and automatically labeled them as a fraud for doing so, you are actually acting like a snob. Fact of the matter is that is if there is cork in the bottle there is cork on the cork. The idea behind sniffing the cork is that the rather unpleasant wine doesn’t make it into the glasses of the unsuspecting taster/drinker. Something to remember…
Unfortunately, if I’ve had this much exposure, I can’t imagine others have not – it also makes me wonder how many bottles I consumed that were full of cork flavors unbeknownst to me and, instead, blamed the wine. I’d like to think that if the wine tastes off my former self and those like my former self would just know it was tainted… but this is unrealistic.
I have been a long-time supporter of screw caps… they’re actually my favorite enclosure. They keep the wines fresher, longer, and can all but eliminate the possibility of cork taint, and require no other opener than an able hand. Of course, I know the arguments. Wines meant for aging often do better under cork, but it’s come to the point, for me, that a bottle under cork is something of which to be weary.
Still would a great, old Burgundy be a great, old Burgundy if it weren’t for the cork enclosure? I should hope that the wines that survive for many years are not those that are found to be tainted (then again, they’re susceptible for a whole other world of issues themselves that outweigh the effects of cork.)
I wonder – how many bottles have others been exposed to over the year? Past month? This week? Please share your thoughts.